Festival Mercè!

Wow, I don't even know how to attempt to recount this weekend, it isn't until I am finally home on Sunday evening now looking back through photos of everything that these 4 days held, that I am able to process all of the new and incredible things that I have seen and experienced. 

The weekend started on Thursday evening after I finished tutoring at 8:30pm, since we never have class on Fridays. I met up with Rachel and Claire and we headed over to a pizza place right by my apartment. It is a super cute restaurant where you sit on stools, and to the front where they are making the pizza to order a slice. There have such a different variety of selection than I am used to, and they are all so delicately baked that they look homemade and the farthest thing from American pizza that I could imagine. Rachel got one with spicy chorizo, and another with tuna and artichoke. Claire got chorizo and pepperoni, and I got tomato and herb, it was delicious! Then we met up with Catherine and made our way down to the Barcelonetta beach, by way of a very indirect ramble through La Rambla and Barrio Gotico. Every corner that we turned the streets got narrower and narrower on our way to the sea, and through each street we encountered something different. We saw tons of crowds around different stages with all kinds of music, art fairs, street performers, traditional dancers, and people filling the outdoor chairs in every cafe.

This was a more formal performance, of a
traditional Catalan artist with many
devoted fans who knew
all of the lyrics.

The crowds were of all ages, but while winding
through the narrow streets of Barrio Gotico,
 most attendees were very young,
college or high school age.

The next morning, we woke up early to check out the museums that open their doors to the public for free during the Mercè weekend. First we walked down to the port to check out the aquarium, but unfortunately it was still about 15 euro per person, so instead we found a nice grassy area right by the harbor to plop down and enjoy our sandwiches. Although it was forecasted to rain the entire weekend, we had the nicest weather since arriving, around 70-75 and impeccably sunny.

Next stop was the Museu de Musica, in the Borne district, which is wedged between the Parc de la Cuitadella/ Arc de Triomf, and Barrio Gotico. Luckily this museum WAS free, and we had a great two hours or so checking out the exhibits.

Here, there rooms upon rooms covered from floor to ceiling in red carpet with huge display cases of beautifully hand-crafted instruments from all over the world from the past 300 years. Each little room played different music over the loudspeaker. Some rooms played booming classical pieces that had the power to move you to tears, while others played funky jazz pieces that led to us all having an impromptu dance-party in the museum. The last room had instruments that you can play and we all tried our hand at the electric guitar (sounded like cats dying) and the harp (hard to make sound unpleasant--but I somehow still managed). After that we all went home to rest for a bit before meeting up again, this time with some Spanish friends that Rachel had made at the Autonomous University. They were four of them, and all really really nice and funny. We met at Barcelonetta, and for our first taste of Spanish social life and custom...we followed them for dinner at none other than McDonald's--their call. Okay, not a great start, but at least conversation was good. We then strolled through La Rambla again and found ourselves seated on a set of stairs in a hidden plaza for the next 2 hours or so, just chatting and swapping funny stories and tidbits about what we know of the other's culture. We plan to hang out with them again, they invited us on a bunch of upcoming trips outside of Barcelona, so it is nice to feel like I have a few local contacts here in the city now.

Sunday Rachel and I decided to meet up to go to the Parc de la Cuitadella, which is at the end of the strip  by the Arc de Triomf. The park was absolutely beautiful, with something for everyone. There was a huge, majestic fountain and then a small lake with little paddle boats, a few small stages, museums, and play structures. We wandered through here for most of the day, here are a few pictures:

 After meandering around, we made it our goal to find the honey and cheese market that I had read about but couldn't remember where it was. Well, we never found it, and later I looked it up to find it is only open on the first weekend of every month, but in the meantime we discovered even more new territory of Barcelona. Here are some more photos of little areas we passed that caught my eye:

An arts and crafts fair with beautiful jewelry and hand-made toys

The street off of Plaça Catalunya parallel to La Rambla, always packed with people.

We passed the Plaça de Toros, and since Catalunya no longer practices bull-fighting, the primary horse/bull sport that still exists is called "correbous" in which they light the bulls horns on fire, but do not kill it. These men were showing off their horses and costume before it began.

Human tower with little kids that are on the very top, only 7-9 years old. In one that a friend saw, he said a little girl on the top fell off and into the crowd on accident!

 Oh and the food! There were two delicious things from this weekend: one, an amazing salad with hazelnut, fresh goat cheese, and figs, all locally grown and produced was amazing, and two, we passed by the Chocolate Museum and I got a sample of Eucalyptus chocolate, which let me tell you is amazing too, everyone should try it, it was heavenly. Okay now I am going off on a tangent, but you know, mint chocolate is almost unheard of here! I have asked in every candy store that I pass, and they have all given me mixed responses, but all resulting in me leaving empty handed. One shop lady gave me the stink-eye and responded "¡Que raro!" which means "How strange!" and then walked away. Another shop keeper said "No, that is not common in Spain, but here you go, this is just as good!" and he handed me a chocolate bar and a pack of Mentos, and told me just to eat them simultaneously. I guess I might just have to improvise...
Anyways I forgot where I was going with that, but lets continue with my Mercè story.
Okay, so Sunday afternoon we went back to Montjuic to explore a bit before the gand finale show at Plaza Espanya at 10pm. We got to the Olympic stadium and walked around a bit, taking pictures and enjoying the scenery. After a long and very indirect walk down to the plaza, we found a seat on a lower fountain and proceeded to chill out for the next three hours before the show started (we heard there was going to be a thousands of people, so we wanted a good seat). Here are a few pictures I took while waiting:

At the Olympic Port, looking over the city towards the airport.

We passed this outdoor menu, and since I have been here I have seen some very wrong and very funny English food translations. May I suggest the "Veaf Steak", or the "Lambs Chomps"?

Entrance to Plaça Espanya

After much anticipation, darkness slowly crept in, and gave way to the amazing show to come. First, the fountain began, then it got a little better, and a little more impressive. Then There were lights in the fountain, then there was music over the loudspeakers, perfectly in-sync with the fountains. Then, FIREWORKS. The best fireworks show I have ever seen in my life! I have a video, but I literally just waited 3 hours for it to still be uploading, so although this serves the display no justice, here is a simple picture.

Maybe I can try to attach the video later when I have better internet, because the wifi and this apartment is a lost cause. Anyways the fireworks were great and secretly part of an international competition. Between each short little break, a new competitor took the stage with their best material. I couldn't tell the difference, just that every segment was incredible impressive. At the finale, we were told over the loudspeaker to light out sparklers (we got a packet as we entered the plaza) and hold them in the air. Just as everyone extended their lit sparkler up into the sky, "Imagine" began to play, the the light show continue. It was so beautiful to look back into the crowd as see how masses of thousands of people are all crammed into this plaza, but everyone is so calm, peaceful, and united by the universally known lyrics of the song. I also have a video from that that I would love to post at some point. This weekend was filled with many lightening bolt moments of "man, this really is my life" that left me with a permanent smile that I don't think will fade anytime soon.

Start of Regular Classes

Today I finally began my Anthropology classes at the University of Barcelona. Well, I have been to one, the other isn't until 8pm, but I didn't think I would have the energy to write a blog when I am back at 10pm. The anthro class I had this morning is on gender and feminism. I, with my incessant need to be on-time, left for class over an hour before hand, took 5 minutes to walk to class, another 3 to find the room, and then sat for an hour in one of the strange benches in the courtyard that curiously faces a cement wall. I passed the time twiddling my thumbs and watching a young American hippie-man scouring the ground for used cigarettes and talking to himself. I am sorry if this is too much detail for a blog, but it did in fact take up a good portion of my morning. The class was....interesting. Very different than what I would have imagined, or at least than what I am used to. The professor showed up 15-20 minutes late, which is regular as a sort of passing period between classes, however I don't think the grace period applies when it is the first class of the day...Anyways she didn't strike me as the professor type, I was surprised when she walked up to the desk. The classroom setting is 100X less formal than in the U.S. I mean from the relaxed time schedules, to the physical presentation of the professors, to the evaluation process. I had a hard time understanding the professor because she talked so quickly and really slurred her words. Then, when she told us the title of the book we are required to purchase, I was temporarily relieved when she wrote it on the board, and then concerned again when she revealed a messy combination of squiggles and dots that I would argue do not belong to ANY language. The class was made up of an interesting mix of students. I am pretty sure 90% of them are graduate students, most are older than 30 actually. The professor's introductory class began with talk about a tribe in Argentina and women's power of childbirth, and I was ready to call it a day about 15 minutes in. For evaluation we will be writing a 10-15 page paper and presenting in front of the class on some topic that personally interests us among the lines of gender differences. Nothing is due until January, so until then I expect that the class will be interesting and confusing, probably way over my head at some points, but by January I should have a firm grasp on the subject matter and be able to turn out a good final project. Tonight my class is Urban Anthropology, which I know could be interpreted in a multitude of styles, so I really don't know what to expect, but the title sounds promising.
My tutoring job hit a snafu with my class schedule, but the family is so nice and willing to accommodate my schedule, so luckily I will be able to keep it throughout the year. ALSO! I forgot to mention such an important detail in my last blog about my new apartment: I WILL BE LIVING WITH A 10-MONTH OLD GOLDEN RETRIEVER!!! I am so excited, her name is Layla and she is so bouncy and energetic and fun! The owners are leaving for England for the year and leaving her here for the first 4 months, so during that time I get to have a puppy in my house! It will be so fun to be able to take her for walks and play, it makes it feel so much more home-y. (Annie-don't worry, you're still number one).
The Merce festivals have officially begun today, although during the beginning of the week all that entails are exhibits and free entrances into museums and government buildings. However, beginning Thursday, at night there are tons of shows, performances and concerts, and during the day there are cultural displays of sorts and tons of activities. This will for sure be a busy, fun-filled weekend!
On Saturday we went to Montjuic again, there is seriously so much to see and do there, you could spend a week on that hill alone! We walked all through the parks and gardens, and checked out the amazing view over Plaça España, but by the time we were ready to go to the museum we were too tired and had only 2 hours before it closed, so we are making an all-day trip back to the Museu D'Art on Friday. In the meantime, here are some photos:

Rachel, Claire and I

Trees reminiscent of central park, NYC

Museu D'Art

View over the plaça
Then, yesterday Rachel and I went back to Parc Güell, in hopes of finding a less tourist-infested version of what we had previously seen. Unfortunately I don't think that will ever be possible, in fact there were tons more people than last time, but it was still beautiful. We found a hiking trail behind the park and meandered for a while, the hills looked a lot like California, and since I have been missing hiking and camping since I have been here, it was nice to discover this little patch of central-valley-like terrain. Here are a couple of pictures:

Tonight I am headed to my new apartment to trade the deposit for my set of keys! Then, off to my second new Anthropology class of the day. Tomorrow I start my job tutoring, and hopefully by the end of this week I'll begin to settle into this new schedule. I hope everyone is doing well, more soon!! Love, Megs

Monserrat and Other Recent Happenings

Before I go into the excursion to Monserrat, here are a few pictures from La Boqueria. I went back this week, now that almost all of the stalls are open, and the candy vendors are amaaaazing! There were so many more than this too, with every kind of candy you can imagine (except dutch mints and lemon heads... :( but I guess I will manage for a year) La Boqueria sells every fresh food item you could need, and then towards the back there are vendors with little bars and stools where you can eat right there as they prepare it for you. There is a ginormous fish section too that you can smell from a mile away, that was kinda sad because they have all of the lobster and crab lined up on the table that were swimming just this morning, and are still kicking even after you buy them...

On Wednesday some friends and I went over to Rachel's apartment in Gracia to cook dinner. She lives really close to the mountains, so from her 18th story view you can see the entire city all the way down to the sea. The view was breathtaking!

We cooked a yummy dinner of pasta and salad and garlic bread, and then toasted to having each found great apartments (more on that subject in just a minute), started classes, and have truly begun settling into the city and feeling at home.

The view at night makes the whole city look so quiet and peaceful!

Yesterday we took out excursion out to the beautiful area of Monserrat. It is a monastery tucked into the mountains above Barcelona that avoided the cultural repression and strict policy of the Franco regime, and is one of the most authentically Catalan places that exist today. (Except for the thousands of tourists that flood the mountain everyday of course...) We spent sometime meandering around, but unfortunately only had and hour and a half and could not explore as much as we would have liked. There are gorgeous hiking trails all over the mountain, and tons more to see besides the actual monastery. Okay, here are some pictures:

A sculpture I have seen in lots of pictures, always with people climbing on the top, but I painfully restrained myself after seeing the giant KEEP OFF signs, but it was tough

This is the giant cathedral, it is massive inside. (note the group of people in the center raising their hands. This was entertaining because there were a few who were there mumbling (i'm assuming praying) with their eyes closed and taking it totally seriously, and then those who joined them to put their hand up, with one on the hip and then posing for a picture)

Inside the cathedral, everyone waiting for what was to come...

One of many beautiful stained glass windows around the church

And then, after we got a seat on the steps by the confessional, we watched as the priest came out and welcomed everyone in first Catalan, then Spanish, English, French, Italian, and German. He then read a passage and did a quick prayer all rotating in each language, it was pretty impressive. Although his English accent sounded like Count Dracula and I couldn't help but giggle. Then, the boys choir came out and sang three beautiful songs.

It was so incredible to watch and hear them, I will definitely never forget this, I got shivers and could have cried it was so moving. Unfortunately mid-way through the second song we looked at our watches and noticed that the bus would be leaving in 5 minutes, so we had to dash. I managed to take a couple more pictures on our sprint back though:

It was so great to get out of the city for a day, and not only be surrounded by nature, but such incredible and never-ending stretches of some of the most impressive terrain I have ever seen. We were precariously driving back down the curvy 2-lane road down the mountain to get to our next stop: a cava bodega. So cava is the same thing as champagne, but her if you say champagne, it means you are referring to that which is made across the border in Champagne, France. So cava is Spain's version. When we got the the bodega, we first had to watch an 8-minute zero-information plug about the winery before beginning the tour. We went down 4 levels to see where all of the cava is stored, and learned about the different processes. 

We hopped on these little motor car-tram things and went all through the underground halls which seemed endless. The smell was so strong, and it reminded me of the Pirates of the Caribbean ride in Disneyland, if that helps anyone...

The walls were literally dripping with who-knows-what, some black and white sludge, fungus, and mold. The smell and air was overwhelming, but it was so cool to see what time can do, and just how long these bottles have been in the depths, letting the years perfect their flavor and quality. 

Then, of course there was some tasting.

 

We had one with pink one, and one just regular (I was clearly paying attention during his talk...)

They both tasted not cheap. Is that a decent critique?

Anyways, we raided the girft shop and then headed back home. Unfortunately the skies began to open up like I have never seen, and began the crazy storm that did not stop until around 10am this morning. Right when I got home I went to an apartment appointment down the street and I LOVED IT! It is seriously my dream apartment in every way! I talked with the girls for about 2 hours, and now it's mine! It in on Gran Via, the street of the University, literally a street corner from the college front entrance. The room is huge, I have a king-size bed, a sofa, a large coffee table, and a full balcony over the street on the 3rd floor, and a yoga studio is on the 1st floor! I couldn't have asked for anything better, and I move in on the 1st! ALSO! I got the job as an English tutor for the family of 3 boys and I begin on Monday! I am very excited about this week, and everything going on right now, I am starting to feel very at home. I am meeting up now with some friends to go out to lunch and an art museum since it's still not great weather, and then we are going to try another discoteca this evening! I will write again soon, Much Love! Megs

Friends and Yummy/Questionable Food!

The last few days have been filled with new classes, more exploring, and now food because before we always had 2 meals a day at the cafeteria and I was too stingy to buy anything in between, but now I am FORCED to purchase my meals, and it has definitely provided some interesting stories. On Sunday I went to Catherine's new apartment to check it out (the one living with a Spanish family), and I don't want to be too sharing of other people's situations, but let's just say unfortunately her living set-up has somewhat turned sour thanks to a live-in cleaning lady/maid from "h-e-double hockey sticks". Anyways we had a short visit there before heading out to the Gothic Quarter again to wander and find a good cafe.  Apparently there was so city-wide craft/antique fair and we found endless lines of booths around every corner, mostly filled with the elderly collectors picking up missing pieces for their unique hobby. Some of the stuff was cool to look at, but I have never really been interested in antique "things", so we continued on.

Then, right in front of this cathedral, past the booths, there were authentic Catalan dancers performing the official dance of Catalunya. Which, although interesting to watch, was very muted and dull. They stand in a circle with their hands in the air and move their feet to subtly and slowly that even the dancers looked like they had danced themselves to sleep. 

Then we continued on among the side street of the neighborhood and found a really cute candy/chocolate/pastry shop, and although I was amazed enough by the window displays, Catherine and Rachel went in to get truffles and a fruit-tart thing that they really liked. Here is what you see walking past the stores in Raval:

Okay I would add more, but my internet here is so slow that it literally takes 10-15 minutes per picture to load, so i'm gonna have to go a little easy on the picture portion of my blog unfortunately. Next we continued on to see even more open fairs.

This is an open area among all of the small and maze-like streets of Raval, filled with cafes, shops, and another antique/art fair.

Now onto the food. So we walked over past Plaza Catalunya for some lunch. I had yet to order the "menu del dia" since I have been here, but every restaurant and cafe serves it between 1-4 or so and it is 3 courses for a fixed price, where you chose each course from a list of maybe 4 or 5. Being that it was the Sunday right after Dia de Catalunya, not much was open, and we chose the first one we could find. I looked at the menu and immediately recognized Andalucian gazpacho and salad, but I couldn't recognize any of the names for the second course, and the waitress said none of them were without meat, so I got two from the first course menu, and then dessert and bread and a soda that comes with the meal. Here is a picture of the gazpacho.

It is pureed and then they serve it with little bowls of chopped peppers and tomatoes and croutons. 

Then I got the salad:

Very basic, and like everything else, drowned in oil and vinegar. Please don't mind the pile of olives resting on my napkin...

Then I got a yummy ice cream sundae dessert!

Everything was 10 euro all together, so it was quite the economical purchase!

Unfortunately my lunch companions were not so fortunate...curiosity killed the appetite.

None of us could understand the second course options since they were all in Catalan, but they decided to be adventurous. Here is what Catherine got:

A big hunk of ocean-dweller. Literally a sawed off salty piece of boney mess. 

Rachel's was waaaaay worse...

We tried to figure out what it was, she said it didn't taste that bad, but the consistency was horrible. We thought it might be some mussel or clam or something like that, but it wasn't until she went home to look it up that she found out she had just eaten gelatinous pigs feet!!

Mom, Dad: pickiness pays off.

:)

Oh, the next few pictures are for you Dad, all of the street scenes I have shown have been really crowded and bustling with people and cars, but here is a major street and train station completely abandoned in the middle of a Sunday afternoon:

No one.

Yesterday after my core classes I went to the Facultat de Historia i Geografia to find out where my classes will be when the department begins on Thursday. We found some crazy art display of humongous mannequin-like things that were really interesting, and really bizarrely placed!

Finally, yesterday we made a trip to a cafe rumored to serve churros con chocolate. Disclaimer: unfortunately I did not participate in their consumption, seeing as it was 10am and I didn't want to be in a coma for the rest of the morning, so this detail is second-hand. 

Here is what they look like:

They come out piping hot, and according to Catherine the chocolate tasted like hot pudding. It is extremely dense and supposed to be really rich, but seeing as we chose a cafe that sells them for 2 euro, I guess we get what we pay for. Maybe this is one of those treats that you just have to splurge on to really get the good stuff. Anyways she thought they were good, but as I would have predicted, sat like a brick in her stomach, and do not serve well as an early-morning snack. I am just happy to have officially seen them, they were the illusive dessert for quite some time now. 

Last night I went to interview at a family's house to possibly tutor their 3 boys English during the school year. I would be working twice a week for 2 hours a session and making 10 euro an hour, which isn't much, but enough to allow some less restricted spending on my part. I will know by the weekend if I get it. I am also looking at switching apartments for the next month, and am meeting with possible new roomates, a girl from Bulgaria and a girl from Peru, tomorrow, so that might be an upcoming change. Tonight Claire, Catherine, Rachel and I are all going over to Rachel's apartment in Gracia to cook dinner and hang out. I am bringing a few baguettes and some wine, and we are planning a fun evening of cooking and catching up on our long first week of "official Spanish lives".

I am going to Monserrat, the giant monastery in the mountains above Barcelona, on Friday with the group and the art museum and old Jewish cemetary of Montjuic on Saturday, so the next post will have lost of great pictures! I miss you all!

 Love, Megs