Viehla

Viehla is the most beautiful place on Earth. 

This weekend really changed something for me. I have never seen such vast, undisturbed natural beauty in my life, and after spending time in the Catalan Pyrenees this weekend, all I want to do is explore the world to find the most unique and unaltered nature. 

We arrive in Viehla around noon on Friday. Rachel, Catherine, Tamar, Alyssa, Joanna and I were immediately in awe of our surroundings. The drive alone gave the Yosemite Valley drive a run for its money. Here are a few pictures that I took from the bus:

The town is situated in a pocket within the Aran Valley, surrounded by towering, snow-capped mountains. The  colors were stunning, autumn is supposedly the best time to be there, although I can imagine every season would be beautiful. The leaves of the trees covering the mountains were of reds, yellows, and darkened greens, while the tops of the mountains were covered in ice and snow, all against the stunningly bright blue sky. When we got off of the bus, we wandered for a bit and then checked into the adorable hotel that I had found online, which was right in the center of the town. Here is were we stayed, at the Aparthotel Refugi D'aran:

We checked in, and marveled at the cute little kitchenette and living room and huge bathroom and bedroom that we all got for so cheap! Once we put our things down, we walked around town for a bit before settling down at an outdoor cafe and getting some coffee while we looked and maps and hiking trails. Here are some photos to give you an idea of the town, on our fist day of exploring:

We immediately fell in love with Viehla. Hard. Meaning, already planning out retirement--hard.

We were pretty tired from waking up at 5am to catch the bus, and wanted to be well rested for a full day of hiking, so after we checked out local shops and visited the tourism office and got oriented, we went to the grocery to buy stuff for dinner. We bought pasta, bread, salad fixings, stuff to make sangria, and sandwich fixings and came back to the hotel to make use of our kitchenette. We all hung out and helped cook while toasting our sangria and then spent the next several hours sitting around the table talking and laughing. It was a great ending to a great day. That night we packed up all of our things for the next day and on Saturday morning we set out for our hike. We took a bus 20 minutes to Salardú, a nearby town, to be picked up by a taxi van and driven up the old and rocky road to the trailhead. The taxi man was very friendly and explained to us along the way, the history of the Aranese language, and the people of the region. Once we were dropped off, he told us he would be back at 5pm if he didn't hear from us sooner, and then gave us the number for the emergency helicopter, and drove off. We really had no concept of how long the hike would be, or where it would take us, but we were all invigorated and ready for a day of new sights. The hike ended up being more or less 10 miles and took about 8 hours, weaving in and out of valleys and plains, lakes and streams. We made it to the base of a mountain covered in snow at the farthest point, and were surrounded by large hunks of snow at then too. We passed a total of 17 lakes, each one more beautiful and breathtaking than the last. The terrain started off as iced-over creaks and grassy paths, then changed to endless grassy plains dotted with boulders and smaller lakes, to literally rock-climbing, hand over foot up mountain faces. It was the most beautiful hike I have ever been on in my life, with the most incredible views that no painting or photograph could even compare to. It made me believe in heaven on Earth, and filled me with the strongest high anyone could experience. Here are photos that I took on the trail, but no picture could capture even a hint of the natural beauty that flooded every inch of these mountains:

Once we got to the bottom, just as the sun was going down, we were freezing cold, exhausted, and scraped up a bit, but all in the best mood in the world, and in complete awe of everything we had just done and seen.

We got back to Viehla and went to a pizzeria in town for hot pizza and a warm place to rest. After we were all filled and warmed up, we went back to the hotel to toast champagne and eat chocolate and relax. We had a great evening of hanging out, and simply enjoying everyones company in such an amazing place.

The next morning we had considered walking to all of the nearby towns, but the weather had a different agenda, so we sought shelter in a small local cafe in the town center. We sat there for a couple of hours drinking cafe americanos, cafe con leche, and hot chocolates while we watched the rain pour down outside. Once we were ready to move on, we found an adorable pastry shop and sat in the booths for another few hours while we tried their hand-made treats and told stories and laughed about everything and about nothing.

Then we noticed that the sun had come out, so we stretched our legs out for the last hour before our bus, and got a few more pictures of Viehla while wandering through the windy small streets:

Moral of the story is that Viehla was a testament to all of the beauty that lies just outside of the city waiting to be explored. It has filled me with such a desire to find places like this that no one else has heard of becuase they are undisturbed and authentically preserved in a way that invites the traveler and not the tourist, and stirs an enthusiasm and invigoration in everyone who stops and explores for a while.

Girona

This past weekend Claire, Rachel and I went to Girona for the day. Girona is just outside of Barcelona about an hour and a half inland by train. We got there at about 10am, and without having brought a tour book or map, we decided simply to wander. The layout of Girona looks similar to that of Barcelona, except about one third the size. The town is situated throughout rolling hills, and apart from the town center, the homes are gently scattered into the greenery. When we were there, the weather was gloomy, and rained most of the day. Also, we went on a Sunday, so nothing was open but places to eat. We first found a plaza in the center, surrounded by an open corridor lined with cafes. We chose the most inviting one and sat down for some cafe con leche while we people watched and waited for more stores to open at about 11. Then we continued walking throughout narrow ancient streets, jumping from overhang to overhang to stay somewhat dry, and window shopping into the delectable patisserie displays. Here are some pictures to give you an idea of the streets:

Then, as we continued walking we found a cute little book fair with old American classics translated to Spanish and Catalan.

On the other side of the plaza here, there is a bridge that leads over to the even older part of the city, where you find the cathedral, and the castle behind. Here is a view from the bridge, across the very low water level to the painted houses.

The first tourist sight that we saw was the Arab baths, which we paid our 2 euro each to go see. It was literally a room with one bath thing, and that was it. But, then we could walk onto the roof, where we got a cool view over the buildings.

Then this building marked the beginning of the castle, which was simple stunning (an the cute alleyways on either side).

I really don't think a ton of money is put into the tourist industry here, because although there are regularly a lot of visitors, none of the landmarks or historical buildings are really marked or explained at all. I will say it was nice to be able to show myself around this incredible castle without being rubbing elbows with 100 other tourists, it would have been nice to know a little bit about what I was looking at, and who's house I was climbing all over. We explored the castle for a while, which was really overgrown with plants, and completely unrestored, but stunning because of that, and provided amazing views from the top over the entire town. Here are some photos:

Then, we walked back down into the city, walked by the cathedral, which was in high mass at the time, and back down to another cafe.

We went back to the same cafe that we were at before to hit up the Menu del Dia which was a sandwich an a soda and coffee. Then we headed towards a dense patch a trees we saw on the edge of the town. There was a carnival in town, and a line of kids and their parents stood in line waiting for it open. We continued into the line of trees, which towered up above.

Girona was small and quaint and provided for a great day of wandering and exploring. The views were spectacular, and the fall colors were beautiful. In keeping with the small town theme, I have organized a trip for this weekend, that I am going on with 5 other girls. I was looking in my tour book and found a really tiny town called Veihla up in the Pyrenees. There is a river that runs right through the town, and is surrounded by mountains. The town is the capital of the d'Aran valley, and they even have their own language, Aranese. We are taking a 5 hour bus ride there at the crack of dawn on Friday, and coming home on Sunday night. We are staying in a little hotel with a room for 6 people equipped with a full kitchen and dining room. I am so excited to be in an extremely small, geographically isolated town surrounded by nature, and good company. The town is mostly known for a place to stay to go to the surrounding ski resorts, but now, a month or so before the snow, it is the best time to enjoy the huge variety of hiking trails, which we intend to do. I will blog next when I get home from the trip, assuredly with great pictures and stories!

Autumn is Coming!

I am sitting on my couch in my room looking out across the balcony. It is definitely fall. Although within the city we lack the beautiful mix of reds and oranges and yellows of the trees I am used to at home, the leaves are slowly but surely turning to brown. Right outside of my window there is a long strip of trees (they are the same ones that are in Central Park in Davis, but I don't know the name) that line the bike path below my building and are tall enough to surpass me on the fourth floor. Soon I will look outside to see bare branches, and although this somewhat alters the scene, it also brings a sense of comfort and familiarity within the changing of seasons. With this great view and big doors to the outside, I have been hoping for a huge storm, to be able to open up my room completely and see the rain pouring down while drinking hot cocoa. But, it has been consistently quite hot, around 80 degrees, and muggy as well. On the days that are overcast, I am hoping that with the clouds come cooler temperatures, so I leave my apartment with a cozy scarf and sweater, only to be sweating bullets before I'm halfway to the door.
I am so content in my new home. I just learned we have a roof-top terrace that was just redesigned that we all have access to, and the girls said they are going to show me all around later.They have been amazing, so friendly and open and cheerful. Last night we sat around for a bit talking before I went out, and it was so interesting because around the table we had an Italian, a Brazilian, an American, a Swede, and a Spaniard all speaking Spanish as our common language. I love that no matter where you are here, you cannot escape this incredible blend of cultures. Although it seems to be the cause of a strong underlying tension presently in Barcelona, with immigration and tourism comparatively new, the mix is something beautiful, and provides for the most unpredictable and sometime incomprehensible yet unmistakably unique experiences.
Yesterday was Catherine's 20th birthday, and to celebrate we packed a picnic of olives, brie, gouda, and goat cheese, a french baguette and a bottle of Rosé to enjoy in the Parc Cuitadella. We sat right by the magnificent fountain for hours, slowly enjoying our mini-feast and soaking up the surroundings. We then wandered into the greenhouse within the park which is unlike the tradition form in that it is constructed with wooden slats. It was small, but peaceful and tranquil. After going home for a siesta, we met up again and toasted to the birthday girl out on the balcony before heading out.
Today we are going to cook some "comfort food" for dinner at Claire's apartment, and we were thinking home-made mac and cheese, but more creative. And tomorrow we are heading out bright and early for a long day spent outside of Barcelona in the beautiful town of Girona. I will take lots of pictures for my next post.
Last week I signed up for a linguistic exchange with other University of Barcelona students who speak Catalan. I didn't know what to expect but met at the time of the appointment right outside of the University. Two girls approached me and asked me if I was Meghan, and after introductions we made our way to a little bar down the street. The two girls are both aiming to be Catalan-English translators in the future, and I wanted to learn (at least) conversational Catalan, so for the next hour and a half we sat around over hot chocolate and switched back and forth between the two languages, while talking about all sorts of things. I really had no clue what the program was going to be set up like, but the three of us will be meeting up every Wednesday evening during the year for an hour or two, sometimes going to cafes, maybe sometimes to a show, or movie, or museum, as ways to just get conversation going, and mutually teach one-another. I am really excited to have this immediate connection to students here, and a group of people who are interested in helping and teaching their fellow students. The group is about 50-60 students, and meet every weekend for various activities organized by the school, in addition to the individual meetings.
Work has been a lot of fun, I am becoming very fond of the three kids that I tutor. Eduard is 7, Roger is 11, and Marc is 14, and they all have such distinct, but delightful personalities. I really enjoy being in the family setting twice a week too, while I am teaching in their rooms I hear their Mom and Dad talking, while she cooks dinner, and the boys practice their instruments or study while I switch between the three.  I'm not going to lie though, it's also really nice just to be getting paid in the same currency that I am spending. The exchange rate is doing none of us any favors, and is getting increasingly worse. Dollar needs to step up its game.
Classes have been very mellow, as I expect they will continue. The only major assignment I will have this semester is a 20 page paper that satisfies both of my Anthropology classes. However, their are basically no guidelines, so I can start whenever I want, and will aim to be done before coming home for Christmas Break, so finals week really means nothing when I get back to Barcelona. There is a yoga studio one floor down from me that I think I will try out this week, and I am considering checking out a Catalan internship. The girls I was talking to said that there are a lot of internships available to those who want to learn the language by working at whatever kind of job a couple of hours a week (volunteering), simply for the experience and to be surrounded by Catalan. It would be zero-commitment, and it might be fun to jump right into the flow of things.
Okay well this post has no photos, but I feel like they have become gradually more about pictures than content, so I thought I would take a post of just writing to catch up. I will post again soon after my trip to Girona! I love and miss you guys! Love, Megs

¡Bienvenidos a Madrid!

Disclaimer: I am writing this blog post after being awake for 28 hours, and I am a zombie but I am trying to stay awake until my class in 6 hours, so I figured this would be a good way to stay awake, I just hope it will make sense to everyone.
OKAY! So Thursday evening I tossed in the keys to my old crappy apartment and moved my things in to the new one! The previous tenant was in the process of packing and moving all of his stuff out, so things were really hectic and I just dropped off my luggage before heading to Rachel's apartment to sleep on the couch before waking up at 5:00am to head to Madrid. I was so happy to be ditching the old house that I was literally skipping to turn in the keys. Anyways, I made it to Rachel's and went to sleep really early to try to start off on our trip well-rested. We met up with Catherine at the metro stop by the bus station at 6:00am and headed over to buy our tickets to leave at 7. Unfortunately, as a consequence of under-planning, I didn't consider the fact that a bus that early would be filled, but it was....and the next 4 busses after that. We got tickets for the 11:30am bus, and sat in the station for the next 5 hours looking like zombies, and staring and everyone walking by. Once we got onto the bus, we quickly learned that it was actually an 8-hour ride, not 5-6 like we had anticipated. We had 3 stops, and got into Madrid at 7:30pm. I just plugged into my ipod and watched the scenery change as we left the city. There was a large variety of landscape between Barcelona and Madrid, from small towns in the hills, to desert-like stretches. Here are a few pictures to show the difference:

Although we were really tired, we had all managed to sleep at least a little on the bus, and we ready to go explore the city after we checked into the Hostal Pop. The hostel was perfect for what we needed. It was really cheap, we stayed in a room with 6 beds, all packed with other international student travelers, and the room had a shower, lockers, two toilets, the hostel had free breakfast every morning (well, Wonderbread and cornflakes), and two kitchens and a common area with games and a plasma tv. We spent almost no time at the hostel, we were out within 20 minutes of waking up, and came back only when we were ready to crash, but it worked really well. Here is my bed:

We went out that night with two of Rachel's friends from the pre-ILP in Cadiz, Justin and Paul. We all went to a cozy tapas bar where they know the owners. Immediately the waiter brought us a complimentary plate of shrimp and drinks. We let them do all of the ordering since they know what's good, and we had white asparagus, a plate with like 5 different forms of Jamon Iberico (ham) and cheese, and croquetas (fried balls of cheese and ham pieces), and lots of sangria. Unfortunately I didn't like any of the food choices, but at least I tried them all. Afterwards we all walked down to La Plaza del Sol (exact center point of Madrid? Or Spain? It was in some informational video in highschool Spanish class but I couldn't remember) and them on to Plaza Mayor where we got gelato. Here is the Plaza del Sol:

And here is Plaza Mayor:

We were so wiped out from traveling all day that we went back to the hostel to sleep pretty early. The next day we met up bright and early at the Museo del Prado, an amazing display of some of the most world-renown works of art. We were probably in the museum for a good 4 or 5 hours, and didn't even see every room. Afterwards we went to a Thai restaurant and somehow sat there for about 3 and a half hours, before walking around the botanical gardens across from the museum. Then we went back to Rachel's friends' apartment and got pizza and hung out for about 8 hours before heading home around 5am. The next day we were up at 11am and walked EVERYWHERE in Madrid. We saw Gran Via, the main shopping street of the city, we saw the Plaza Mayor and del Sol again, to see what it was like during the day, we went to the Palacio Real which had closed two hours earlier, we went through side streets and to the Mercado de San Miguel, and saw all kinds of street performers and vendors. Here are some pictures from the day:

The street of our hostel

Plaza del Sol

Museo del Prado

Botanical Garden

An amazing opera singer with quartet and two generous audience members

Inside the market

Like La Boqueria but classier and MUCH more expensive

After walking through the market, we had plans to meet up at the Palacio Real, and gradually made our way across town. On the way, we passed the basilica and church which were in mass at the time, but we sneaked in long enough to take a picture and hear a piece from the choir.

The ceiling of the basilica

We had some time to kill, and passed this outdoor cafe with a beautiful view over the hills that we just couldn't pass up, we were here for about 2 hours until it started to rain.

The Palacio Real, unfortunately closed when we visited, but I will definitely be coming back to see the interior.

On the steps of...a big building, I think it was connected to the church but I'm not sure. These steps look directly at the view of the previous picture. 

After the rain started to come down hard, we found a cute smoothie cafe place and sat inside for the next 6 hours discussing everything from the flaws of the UC system, to immigration, to the future of the planet. We eventually had to part ways to head to the bus station, but we had a fantastic weekend with great foods, great sights, great conversation, and great company.

I got back to my NEW apartment this morning at 7:30am and unpacked everything. I am in LOVE with this place, it is everything that I wanted and I immediately feel so at home. I wish that when it comes time to go back to the U.S. I could just transplant this room along with the balcony and view back to California. My roomates were so sweet and bought a big plant to go in my room since I said I like lots of plants, and they made my bed and bought new candles and incense for me, and everything was so immaculately clean too.

My room!!!! My king-size bed, desk, sofa, trunk coffee table, closet and balcony

The other side of my room with my dresser, the plant they bought me, cushion seats, and my balcony! 

How sophisticated! I even have a globe on top of the worn-in trunk table

The sweet puppy Layla! She followed me around the house the whole day as I unpacked

She's so cute!!

So basically I am in love with my new situation, and I am so happy that things played out this way, and that I have ended up as I did. I went grocery shopping as soon as I settled in and bought a few things for my room too. It's so nice to finally feel that sense of permanency! I have kept the big doors to the balcony open always and the fresh breeze and city noise is so peaceful and comforting. Also, the light shines directly in through my window, so once I was settled I made a cup of tea and sat on the floor in front of my window just soaking it all up.

This weekend I have a five-day break because Tuesday is some holiday, so I don't have class from Thursday afternoon to Wednesday afternoon. It would be a great weekend to travel, but between just spending a weekend in Madrid, and buying lots of new things for my apartment, I can't swing a 5-day trip. However, this weekend in Catherine's birthday, so the group of us will still plan plenty of fun things. We will just have to discover the free delights of Barcelona--if they exist.

I hope everyone is doing great! Lots of love!!!! Meghan